Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and tourists equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, Unesco recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a select group of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it becomes part of a international community of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "demonstrates its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and dynamic culinary scene," as stated by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 cities internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this historic city is little surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has perennially defined its soul: an profound passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on every corner, there are little shops and carts – hidden delights that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and involved. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their younger generation do not want to master the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will encourage more people globally to learn these tales and travel to the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
